What to do
Twelve things, for the days between viewings.
Istanbul will absorb as much time as you give it. A viewing trip should leave room to feel the city you might live in — so we keep mornings for appointments and afternoons for this. Your advisor Ali will tell you which of these suits the district you are buying into.
BOSPHORUS
A morning on the water
The municipal ferry from Beşiktaş to Üsküdar, every twenty minutes, on the deck, forty minutes, a tea. The best way to read the waterfront from the water — and to see which districts you actually want to live in.
ANTIQUITY
Ayasofya, before nine
The doors open at seven-thirty. Our guides book the first slot. Twenty minutes of silence inside, before anyone else arrives. The light through the upper windows does something it never does later.
ANTIQUITY
The Basilica Cistern
Underneath the old city, cool, dim, columns looted from older Roman ruins. We book the 16:00 slot — the tour groups have thinned, the acoustic is what it was meant to be.
MARKET
Kadıköy food market · Wednesdays
A real market, not a tourist one — and the beating heart of the Asian-side neighbourhoods many buyers end up choosing. Our host takes clients across on the ferry; cheese at Namlı, honey at Beypazarı. Three hours, done properly.
GARDEN
Emirgan park at tulip time
April only. The city's Ottoman tulip festival — a million bulbs, a hilltop, an uncrowded weekday morning. A reminder of what the word 'garden' means in the leafy Sarıyer districts.
HAMMAM
Kılıç Ali Paşa hammam
Sinan, sixteenth century, restored in 2012. Women's mornings and men's afternoons. Ninety minutes, then a long lie-down — the right way to end a day on your feet across three districts.
MUSIC
Fazıl Say at the AKM
When he is in town. Turkey's most serious living pianist, in a hall that re-opened in 2021. We check the schedule when you arrive.
ART
Arter + Istanbul Modern
Two contemporary art museums across the Bosphorus from each other, both architecturally serious. A full day; we put lunch between them.
BAZAAR
Grand Bazaar, the jewellers' row
The quiet way: in through the Nuruosmaniye gate, straight to the gold dealers our fixer knows, no pressure, leave with tea. Ninety minutes, no more.
ISLANDS
Büyükada, on a weekday
Ninety minutes by ferry, no cars on the island, horses retired since 2020. A bicycle, a restaurant on the east shore, back by supper. A glimpse of the city's most characterful second-home market. Summer only.
EVENING
Sunset from Pierre Loti
The hilltop above the Golden Horn. A cable-car up, a Turkish coffee on the terrace, the whole of the old city glowing below. Our drivers know the window — twenty minutes after sunset, not before.
QUIET
The Süleymaniye courtyard
Sinan's masterpiece, the city's second mosque. The courtyard, off-season, mid-morning, is one of the quietest outdoor spaces in the centre of Istanbul. We send buyers there on their last day.